When: closing on September 29, 2019
The "golden arts" of Senegal are less well known than those of their neighbors, but the country has been a hub of fashion for many years, and continues to be one today. This show focuses on jewelry, which in Senegalese culture (and in most countries, probably) is a signifier of power and prestige. If you can afford to wear lots of gold jewelry, you obviously have money beyond what's needed for basic subsistence.
Marion Ashby Johnson was a collector and scholar of jewelry, and she donated her collection to the Smithsonian. Most of what's on display here is from her gift. Although many works in the museum's collection are very old, jewelry dating before the middle of the 20th century is actually quite rare. The oldest item on display is from the early 20th century. Usually, older pieces were melted down to create new, more fashionable pieces. I suppose that's similar to people having a family ring reset.
There is a word used in Senegal, sanse, which comes from the French word changer (to change). It has a variety of meanings, but generally refers to dressing for success, a sign of money, status and importance. It's different from and more complex than fashion, as it also involves ethical choices, as well as outer appearance. Jewelry is a big part of sanse.
I confess, it was difficult for me to relate to this idea, as I don't really care that much about fashion or style. I own jewelry and buy it from time to time, but it's mostly pendants that I switch out on a few chains. I don't even have pierced ears, let alone anything else. Fancy clothes are something I've arranged my life to avoid. Not that some of the pieces weren't lovely. I saw a butterfly necklace and bracelet set that I liked very much, for example.
Verdict: If you're fascinated by fashion, give this a look.
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